Here they are! Just like the regular knitting … just Christmas themed.
There are 6 per page in pdf format. They are double sided and they are best printed on heavier stock paper.
I just ask if you share these you give a link back to this post. Thanks!
I will eventually do other Holidays and wedding/engagement themed ones … eventually. I also will do custom work if you would like a set for a special occasion. Just leave me a post below.
I love knitting. And there are some pretty awesome planner stickers for knitting. Me being me, I had to create a set for myself. I hope you like them. Feel free to share them with friend, but please don’t sell them. They are for personal use only.
Here they are! Just like the regular knitting … just baby themed.
Click to download It’s a Girl tags
Click to downlaod It’s a Boy tags
There are 6 per page in pdf format. They are double sided and they are best printed on heavier stock paper.
I just ask if you share these you give a link back to this post. Thanks!
I will eventually do Holiday and wedding/engagement themed ones eventually. I also will do custom work if you would like a set for a special occasion. Just leave me a post below.
Here they are! Just like the regular knitting … just birthday themed.
There are 6 per page in pdf format. They are double sided and they are best printed on heavier stock paper.
I just ask if you share these you give a link back to this post. Thanks!
I will probably do Holiday themed ones eventually. I also will do custom work if you would like a set for a special occasion. Just leave me a post below.
When I joined in the Jimmy Beans Wool (JBW) Semi-Precious Tosh Shawl Mystery Knit-a-Longs (MKAL) the pattern used what the designer is calling a Quilted Stitch. I’ve also seen it called a Diamond Stitch or an Open Diamond Stitch. I found it somewhat confusing at first.
I was asked how I learned the stitch. I thought this might help someone else.
The written abbreviations for the quilted stitches are t1r and t1l (twist one to the right, and twist one to the left). This is how you do a t1r and t1l and how to do a complete repeat of the pattern.
I wrote this row by row. This is only a swatch. I don’t use the abbreviations much because it’s more about how to do the stitch than how to do a pattern. If you find any errors, please let me know (it was not test knit by anyone) so I can correct them.
About the stitch: it is an 6 stitch, 8 row repeat. This swatch is 3 stitch repeats, 2 row repeats (18 stitches by 16 rows), with 2 edges stitches (one on either side). The actual pattern from the designer will be written slightly differently. The way I have it written is a swatch & educational only. It’s not intended to be part of any pattern.
Assumptions: You have worked with 2 colors of yarn before and can 1) join in a new color, 2) carry a float up the side of the work (it’s not hard, just don’t get it too tight).
What you will need 2 very contrasting colors of yarn (black & white are perfect), appropriate sized needles for your yarn. Optional: a stitch marker or cable needle. I tried to make the colors below match the colors that I had on my needles.
Abbreviations:
k – Knit
p – Purl
s2 – slip 2
d – Drop a stitch
s2wyib – Slip 2 with yarn in back
s2wyif – Slip 2 with yarn in front
s1wyib – Slip 1 with yarn in back
s1wyif – Slip 1 with yarn in front
t1r – twist one to the right
t1l – twist one to the left
Odd rows (1, 3, 5, etc.) are the right side (rs) of the work.
Even rows (2, 4, 6, etc.) are the wrong side (ws) of the work.
Ready? Let’s try this.
My Colors: 1 – Blue, 2 – Pink
Cast on 20 stitches with color 1.
Edge Rows:
Row 1 – Knit (color 1)
Row 2 – Knit (color 1)
I repeated these 2 rows once.
Setup Rows:
Row 1 – Knit (color 2)
Row 2 – Color 2
k1 (edge stitch)
k2, p2, k4, p2, k4, p2, k2
k1 (edge stitch)
(Click to expand the pictures for a better view. They will open in a new tab.)
Quilting Rows:
Row 1 – (color 1) k1, k2, s2wyib, k4, s2wyib, k4, s2wyib, k2, k1
The s2wyib will line up over the purls from the previous row. You are carrying those 2 purls up one row without knitting them. Don’t worry too much about the tension on the s2wyib. As long as they are not exceedingly tight you will be ok. It’s hard to see the floats in the 3rd picture because of the yarn.
Aside: Why am I saying k1, k2 or k2, k1? Why not just k3? There is a madness to this. The K1 is an edge stitch and not part of the pattern. Further down it is alone without its k2.
Row 2 – (color 1) k1, k2, s2wyif, k4, s2wyif, k4, s2wyif, k2, k1
The s2wyif will line up with the purls from 2 rows back. They are being carried up this row as well.
Row 3
Or the scary row! This is the row that we begin dropping stitches to move them across the work. Unless you pull a whole lot, the stitches don’t go anywhere. This is where the stitch marker or cable needle come into play. You should put the dropped stitch on one until you get comfortable. I used a stitch marker when I first started.
(color 2) k1
*s2 to right needle, d1,
s2 to left needle, pick up dropped stitch on left needle
K3 (you’ve just made your t1r stitch!!)
d1, k2, pick up dropped stitch on left needles and k
(You’ve just made your first t1l stitch!)
Repeat from * 2 times
k
Row 4 – (color 2) k1, p1, k4, p2, k4, p2, k4, p1, k1
On this row, if you look at your purls, they line up with the moved stitches from the previous row (see the second picture in Row 5). And they also line up with the purls from row 2 of the set up row. The pictures below show the ws and how things are lining up.
Row 5 (color 1) k1, s1wyib, k4, s2wyib, k4, s2wyib, k4, s1wyib, k1
The s1wyib & s2wyib will line up with the purls from the previous row. This is the same reasoning as row 1.
Row 6 (color 1) k1, s1wyif, k4, s2wyif, k4, s2wyif, k4, s1wyif, k1
The s1wyib & s2wyib will line up with the previous row. This is the same reasoning as row 2.
Row 7 – More scary drops (color 2)
k1
*d1, k2, pick up dropped stitch on left needle, k1 (t1l)
s2 to right needle, d1, slip 2 to left needle, pick up dropped stitch, k3
repeat from * 2 times
k1
Row 8 – This is a repeat of Setup Row 2 (color 2)
k1, k2, p2, k4, p2, k4, p2, k2, k1
And that is one full repeat of the 8 rows that make up the quilted stitch.
Below is my full swatch – 3 of the 6 stitches across and 2 row repeats. Plus 2 repeats of Edge Rows on the top and bottom.
I hope this has helped and not confused you! If you have any questions you can leave a comment below and I will do my very best to help.
I found free printable knitting tags on Pinterest and they were nice. But they weren’t quite what I wanted. I really wanted enough space to write a note. And a couple of other laundry symbols – with explanations (I mean who can remember what those things mean?!).
So made my own.
Free Printable Tags
There are 6 per page in pdf format. They are double sided and they are best printed on heavier stock paper.
I just ask if you share these you give a link back to this post. Thanks!
I will probably do Holiday and birthday themed ones eventually. I also will do custom work if you would like a set for a special occasion. Just leave me a post below.
Yarn: Not much worsted (medium (4)) Red, White & Blue. I used Caron Simply Soft Solids Blue Mint, Red Heart Classic Solid White & Red Heart Classic Solid Jockey Red
Needles & Hooks: US 7 Double Pointed Knitting Needles
4.5 MM (US 7 or G or H) Crochet Hook
Notions: Tapestry needle
Gauge: Not important at all (my kind of project!)
Need to Know Knitting: Casting on, Knitting in the round, Increasing, adding a color, and how to chain in Crochet!
Abbreviations:
kfb = knit into front and back of stitch (increase)
k = knit
I was completely inspired by Catina Anderson’s crocheted version. But that is crochet and I suck at crochet. Don’t get me wrong – did try and mine where nowhere as cute as hers. So with that in mind off I went into design mode to make a knit version. This write up is completely almost finished. If you have any questions, please just leave me a comment below. (You will have to sign up so that I know you aren’t a spambot – sorry.) A downloadable pdf is available through ravelry (without the pictures) (Ravelry Download)
There are 2 versions …. a fatter version and a thinner version. The pictures below are mostly of the fatter version but it really doesn’t make a difference (I was just noting it in case someone wondered). All images are clickable to make them larger.
Let’s knit!
With Red – Cast on 4 stitches (we are starting at the crown of the hat). Leave at least a 6 inch tail.
Row 1: kfb all stitches (8 total)
Row 2: Fatter: *K, kfb* (repeat 3 times) (12 total stitches)
Row 2: Thinner: Knit (8 total stitches)
Now is a good time to stop and redistribute your stitches so that you have 4 per needle (or 3 ish for the thinner). OR if you don’t mind have a whole bunch on needle … press on!
Row 3: K
Row 4: K
I added a marker at this point so I know where my beginning is at a quick glance.
Row 5: K We will be adding the white for the next row. Do NOT Cut the RED!!!
Row 6: In white K
I knit the tail into the 2nd and 3rd stitch so I don’t have to weave it in later.
Row 7: K
Don’t forget stitches 2 and 3 will be double strands.
Row 8: K We will switching back to the red for the next row. Do NOT Cut the WHITE!!!
Side note: Try to keep the gap between needles as tight as possible. Especially when going from row to row. Below is a little big and should be tightened up.
Row 9: In red K
Row 10: K
Row 11: K
Row 12: K We will be switching back to the white for the next row. Do NOT Cut the RED!!!
Row 13: In white K
Row 14: K
Row 15: K We will switching back to the red for the next row. Do NOT Cut the WHITE!!!
Row 16: In red K
Row 17: K
Row 18: K
Row 19: K We will be switching back to the white for the next row. Do NOT Cut the RED!!!
Row 20: In white kfb.
BO and join the white to make a nice round brim. (Pick up the first bound off stitch and slip the last bound off stitch over the picked up stitch.)
Cut the white and red. Leave a long enough red tail to sew up the bottom of the hat. Weave in the white end.
Pull on the original cast on tail to bend the hat slightly to one side and tie to the other red tail tightly against the hat. I tried to get mine to bend on the color jog. Tuck the original tail up into the hat (no need to cut or weave it in – yay!).
Sew up the bottom of the hat with the longer red tail.
Weaving in (tying off your choice) the end and pull it up through the hat and cut.
And the hat is off needles!
Now for the blue. With the blue & the crochet hook pick up a bit of the red where you sewed up the bottom.
Chain between 40 & 50. Mine is 45. If you are going to give it with one the Seuss books I’d go 50. Do note end – leave the last chain open and nice & big (it is going to hold the tassel) with a long tail and cut the yarn.
Cut 2 8” pieces of all 3 colors.
Slip them through the last chain and tighten the loop.
Tie off the tail. I created a more tassley look by wrapping the blue tail around the tassle part and tying it off. And leaving the now tied off tail so there are 5 blue strands in the tassle.
Trim the tassel.
Tie off the blue at the hat and weave it through the hat and cut it off.
And TAH-DAH! We have a bookmark.
Crystal Palace Panda Silk
Crystal Palace Panda Silk
52% bamboo, 43% machine washable Merino wool, 5% combed silk
204 yds/50 gr.
Gauge (sts. / inch): 7
US Needle: 1
Fingering (27-32 sts/4 in)
Machine Wash
The bamboo gives a great feel and a luster, the wool gives a soft feeling core and the combed silk gives it sheen and strength.
http://www.straw.com/cpy/yarns/pandasilk-card.html
I like this yarn. 2 of the 3 fibers are very renewable. It’s got a nice soft feel and it’s a very smooth knit. I’m not very far into my first project with this yarn, but so far it’s been a good knit. There is no splitting in the yarn and it creates a nice flat fabric. I’m sure once I get further in the piece will have a lovely drape.
I am using one of the darker colors – Morgan Green. And I did notice that there was some dye on my fingers. So I would suggest care in wetting and washing as there will be some bleeding. And that is my only complaint.
Crystal Palace Panda Silk – Morgan Green
I will use this yarn again.
I don’t know about you, but I really dislike weaving in ends. I’m lazy and when I’m finished knitting I really want to be done with a project. And also, I’m always afraid that my weaving in won’t be enough and the ends will come undone and my entire project will unravel.
What I do is probably – if I did my research – something common. Here is what I do, especially with the fluffier yarns. The join with the smooth yarns (especially bulky) is more noticeable. But depending on what you are knitting and where the join is, it might not make a difference.
When you are about 6 to 8 inches from the end of a skein, fold the yarn in half.
Take the new skein and do the same thing (fold in half) looping the new through the old.
Knit the folded yarn like you would any other yarn. Just be careful when you knit back over the join to pick up both strands as 1 stitch or you will increase accidentally! Or worse pick up an end which isn’t knit in and it will come undone creating a hole. So just watch then next row and you’ll be just fine!
Tah-Dah! You are woven in without weaving. And because your join is actually knit into the fabric you don’t have to worry about it coming undone.
For those of you who are like me and don’t necessarily pay attention to your dye lots, this post is for you.
I never really pay too much attention to dye lot. Granted I do try to buy enough of the same dye lot to finish a project. But I usually say, if it looks the same then the dye lot isn’t too important. That can be horribly wrong.
The attached picture is Lily Sugar ‘n Cream Soft Violet. They are both the same color, just different dye lots. It is just a very graphic showing of how different dye lots can be. In this case, the fact that they are different colors is fine. I actually wanted 3 different colors of purple for my project. But if I was making something that required a consistent color – I would be in deep weeds!
Here is a link to the pot holders I am making. 3 strand pot holder. As you can see, dye lot isn’t important in this case.
Just a word of advice from someone who normally plays fast & loose with dye lots … if you are doing a solid color project buy enough of the same dye lot to finish your project!!!
