Quilting Stitch

When I joined in the Jimmy Beans Wool (JBW) Semi-Precious Tosh Shawl Mystery Knit-a-Longs (MKAL) the pattern used what the designer is calling a Quilted Stitch. I’ve also seen it called a Diamond Stitch or an Open Diamond Stitch. I found it somewhat confusing at first.

I was asked how I learned the stitch. I thought this might help someone else.

The written abbreviations for the quilted stitches are t1r and t1l (twist one to the right, and twist one to the left). This is how you do a t1r and t1l and how to do a complete repeat of the pattern.

I wrote this row by row. This is only a swatch. I don’t use the abbreviations much because it’s more about how to do the stitch than how to do a pattern. If you find any errors, please let me know (it was not test knit by anyone) so I can correct them.

About the stitch: it is an 6 stitch, 8 row repeat. This swatch is 3 stitch repeats, 2 row repeats (18 stitches by 16 rows), with 2 edges stitches (one on either side). The actual pattern from the designer will be written slightly differently. The way I have it written is a swatch & educational only. It’s not intended to be part of any pattern.

Assumptions: You have worked with 2 colors of yarn before and can 1) join in a new color, 2) carry a float up the side of the work (it’s not hard, just don’t get it too tight).

What you will need 2 very contrasting colors of yarn (black & white are perfect), appropriate sized needles for your yarn. Optional: a stitch marker or cable needle. I tried to make the colors below match the colors that I had on my needles.

Abbreviations:
k – Knit
p – Purl
s2 – slip 2
d – Drop a stitch
s2wyib – Slip 2 with yarn in back
s2wyif – Slip 2 with yarn in front
s1wyib – Slip 1 with yarn in back
s1wyif – Slip 1 with yarn in front
t1r – twist one to the right
t1l – twist one to the left

Odd rows (1, 3, 5, etc.) are the right side (rs) of the work.

Even rows (2, 4, 6, etc.) are the wrong side (ws) of the work.

Ready? Let’s try this.

My Colors: 1 – Blue, 2 – Pink

Cast on 20 stitches with color 1.

Edge Rows:
Row 1 – Knit (color 1)
Row 2 – Knit (color 1)
I repeated these 2 rows once.

Setup Rows:
Row 1 – Knit (color 2)
Row 2 – Color 2
k1 (edge stitch)
k2, p2, k4, p2, k4, p2, k2
k1 (edge stitch)

(Click to expand the pictures for a better view. They will open in a new tab.)

Quilting Rows:
Row 1 – (color 1) k1, k2, s2wyib, k4, s2wyib, k4, s2wyib, k2, k1
The s2wyib will line up over the purls from the previous row. You are carrying those 2 purls up one row without knitting them. Don’t worry too much about the tension on the s2wyib. As long as they are not exceedingly tight you will be ok. It’s hard to see the floats in the 3rd picture because of the yarn.

Aside: Why am I saying k1, k2 or k2, k1? Why not just k3? There is a madness to this. The K1 is an edge stitch and not part of the pattern. Further down it is alone without its k2.

Row 2 – (color 1) k1, k2, s2wyif, k4, s2wyif, k4, s2wyif, k2, k1
The s2wyif will line up with the purls from 2 rows back. They are being carried up this row as well.

Row 3
Or the scary row! This is the row that we begin dropping stitches to move them across the work. Unless you pull a whole lot, the stitches don’t go anywhere. This is where the stitch marker or cable needle come into play. You should put the dropped stitch on one until you get comfortable. I used a stitch marker when I first started.

(color 2) k1
*s2 to right needle, d1,

s2 to left needle, pick up dropped stitch on left needle
K3 (you’ve just made your t1r stitch!!)

d1, k2, pick up dropped stitch on left needles and k
(You’ve just made your first t1l stitch!)

Repeat from * 2 times
k

Row 4 – (color 2) k1, p1, k4, p2, k4, p2, k4, p1, k1
On this row, if you look at your purls, they line up with the moved stitches from the previous row (see the second picture in Row 5). And they also line up with the purls from row 2 of the set up row. The pictures below show the ws and how things are lining up.

Row 5 (color 1) k1, s1wyib, k4, s2wyib, k4, s2wyib, k4, s1wyib, k1
The s1wyib & s2wyib will line up with the purls from the previous row. This is the same reasoning as row 1.

Row 6 (color 1) k1, s1wyif, k4, s2wyif, k4, s2wyif, k4, s1wyif, k1
The s1wyib & s2wyib will line up with the previous row. This is the same reasoning as row 2.

Row 7 – More scary drops (color 2)
k1
*d1, k2, pick up dropped stitch on left needle, k1 (t1l)
s2 to right needle, d1, slip 2 to left needle, pick up dropped stitch, k3
repeat from * 2 times
k1